Bhutan Day 7: Pampering in Paro

PARO & COMO UMA PARO

When we were planning our trip, we had knew that the day which we had to visit the Tiger's Nest would be nothing less than a gruelling one. As expected, our previous day was bone-weary, back-breaking, and blistering.

Well, we couldn't complain since we had taken the easy option of riding the horse for half the ascend, compared to our 2 Taiwanese friends who had walked the entire journey uphill. Nonetheless, everyone was still beaten and exhausted.

Hence, we had included an additional day at the luxurious hotel, COMO Uma Paro, in our itinerary right after our momentous Taktsang climb. This is our well-deserved "off day" to recharge and recuperate from the Taktsang damage, and the hardship we had been through so far.

But before we checked-in for some luxury pampering, we had to check-out temporarily from our hotel Tashi Namgay, which we would return again for our final night's stay.

Loaded our luggage neatly in the back of our vehicle. Seems like we had not been shopping much.

Getting to work in the early morning.

We started the day with Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest monasteries in Bhutan that was built in the 7th century by Tibetan Emperor Songtsän Gampo.

Rows of beautifully painted prayer wheels fringe the temple building perimeter.

Apparently, blue was the colour of the royalty in the past.

Exquisite hand-painted motifs and lattices in Kyichu Lhakhang.

An elderly man doing his prayers around the temple.

Morning chores.

One should walk around the temple perimeter in a clockwise direction, turning each prayer wheel clockwise, one at a time and not missing any wheel. This would spread blessings and well wishes.

Getting back to our vehicle and joined by many new friends we made at Kyichu Lhakhang. Somehow, stray dogs just love us wherever we go.

Our next stop was Rinpung Dzong, often called the Paro Dzong due to its location. Every man wearing Bhutan's traditional clothing, Gho, would have to put on their Kabney (a 3-metre long silk scarf) when entering important places or attending importance events. White Kabneys are worn by commoners.

Our tour guide, Mr. Jigme, explaining the Bhavacakra in detail, layer by layer. It's more commonly known as the "wheel of life".

The entrance hallway into Rinpung Dzong is adorned with colourful wall murals depicting many Buddhism teachings.

Entering the inner compound of Rinpung Dzong.

The Rinpung Dzong complex houses the district monastic body and government administrative offices of Paro.

Including the Royal Court of Justice for Paro Dzongkhag (district).

A large prayer hall in Rinpung Dzong with beautiful solid timber floor boards.

Little Buddha? Apparently, the 1993 movie, Little Buddha, was shot in Paro's Rinpung Dzong and it's surroundings.

A monk standing along the corridor.

A group of monks gathering for some ceremony with a donkey. It was interesting to watch but we had no idea what was going on.

A breath-taking panoramic view of Paro valley from the viewing balcony of Rinpung Dzong.

The majestic white-washed fortress walls of Rinpung Dzong. The second floor balcony is where the previous panorama was taken from.

Locals outside Rinpung Dzong.

Built in 1644, Rinpung Dzong is a shortened name for Rinchen Pung Dzong, which means 'Fortress on a Heap of Jewels'. We couldn't find any jewel despite sneaking up every nook and cranny.

Crossing this wooden cantilevered bridge had marked the end of our morning Paro tour.

We headed back to Paro town to have lunch, which turned out to be a feast. We had been eating Bhutanese food all day everyday since we arrived, and we were still loving it on the 7th day.

We decided to stay one night at the illustrious COMO Uma Paro Hotel for a different experience. Other than its fine rooms, impeccable service, and exclusivity, this is also the hotel which hosted the wedding of Hong Kong superstars Tony Leung and Carina Lau in 2008.
http://www.comohotels.com/umaparo

Our rooms were not ready when we arrived. Hence, a friendly hotel staff, Ms. Yeshi, took the chance to show us around the hotel grounds, including the most luxurious headline suite - The COMO Villa!

This is the humble living and dining space in COMO Villa. And most importantly, this villa was where Hong Kong celebrities Tony Leung and Carina Lau were staying during their wedding.

The bathroom seems bigger than my own living room in Singapore.

One of the two bedrooms in the villa.

The villa comes with a private spa outhouse and outdoor hot stone bath. The spa outhouse could be converted to the third bedroom if necessary.

The wonderful patio in front of COMO Villa - a perfect place for private parties under the stars. I could only imagine and fantasize for now, until I have USD1,800 to splurge for a night.

Walking back to the hotel main building and checking-in.

Our Valley View Room...

...with a stunning view of Paro valley from our balcony.

Our room key with a fish-bell key chain. In total, there are only twenty rooms and nine villas in this exclusive hotel.

The hotel sits amidst the lush pine forest, offering a total sense of peace and tranquillity.

Having tea and getting ready for my 2-hour spa treatment at the COMO Shambhala Retreat.

The facilities are amazing. You may sign up for their free yoga classes, step into their well-equipped gym, or jump into this heated indoor pool.

Not forgetting the details and brand experience.

If you are looking to stretch your muscles, try archery on the hotel ground. Archery is Bhutan's national sport and any trip to this country would not be complete without a shot. We had an hour of fun with their bamboo-made bow and arrows, patiently coached by the hotel staff. I bet everyone would agree that the target board was a little too small.

The target boards in Bhutan archery are known to be minuscule. This was my best shot of the evening, or the only arrow that hit the target board and stayed on it. Arrows that hit the target but fell off would not be considered.

Ended our game of archery and heading back for dinner.

The signature restaurant at COMO Uma Paro - the Bukhari. It's an award-winning restaurant and we were told that the royal family frequent this place.

Started my wonderful dinner with a bottle of their favourite local fruity Weiss beer - the Red Panda.

Our sumptuous dinner of mixed Bhutanese and Indian food at Bukhari. The portions may look small (it's a fine dining restaurant after all), but the wide variety and superb food quality had certainly made our dinner a highly satisfactory one!



Continue Day 8...
http://aikkianphotography.blogspot.sg/2017/05/bhutan-day-8-festival-above-rest.html

GENERAL TIPS AND USEFUL INFO:

Date of trip: 6 to 14 December 2016

Accommodation:

• Osel Hotel, Thimphu
• Hotel Lobesa, Punakha
• Tashi Namgay Resort, Paro
• COMO Uma Paro, Paro (additional stay)

Weather in Dec is cool and beautiful. The sun can be harsh and intense in the day. A pair of shades and sunblock would be good to have.

It could get warm in the day, especially when trekking up the mountains for hours. The option to layer multiple light clothing would be more sensible and convenient than one thick and heavy jacket. Temperature typically ranged from 15 to 20 degrees Celsius in the day, to freezing temperatures at night. Some hotels may not have very effective room heater. Hence, bring warm pyjamas just in case. Consider bringing a hot water bag to snug under your blanket (Hotel Lobesa had provided 2 and they were God-sent on that freezing night).

When visiting temples, Dzongs and places of importance, long pants and collared shirts/jackets would be required. For ladies, please wear long pants/skirts throughout the trip. Several places would require shoes to be removed before entering. Consider the ease of footwear removal if you do not wish to spend excessive time meddling with shoelaces.

A set of traditional attire - the Gho and Kira will be prepared for all tourists. You may choose to wear it any day, or every day. The tour guide and driver will guide you through the art of wearing.

Road condition was bad, as most roads were under repair or construction. The terribly bumpy road surfaces coupled with windy mountainous roads was the perfect formula for some dramatic motion sickness. Prepare for the worse - motion sickness medication, sour plum, mints, Axe Brand medicated oil, Tiger Balm; arm with them all if you need. If you know you are going to fall victim easily, request to swap with the tour guide for a front passenger seat, which I did for some parts of the journey before becoming Singapore's vomiting icon.

Food was delectable and palatable. The 4 of us, 2 Singaporeans and 2 Taiwanese, had all enjoyed every meal with smiles and praises. Ask for their local condiments and chilli to add some exciting flavours to your meal. Staff at any restaurant would usually be happy to serve. Their local chilli cheese (Ema Datshi) would also fire up any bland meal you may find. Ask what your tour guide and driver are eating and you may be in for some flavourful surprises.

Tuesdays are "Dry Days", which means, no alcoholic drinks are available.

GETTING STARTED

Visit Druk Asia (https://www.drukasia.com/) and start planning using their wide range of packages as a starting point. Contact their friendly staff if you have any question or would like to customise any part of the itinerary. It's not necessary to follow the itinerary strictly. You could arrange with your personal guide and work out a more "free-and-easy" programme when you are there. But your guide and driver would always be with you as there is no other way to get around this country.

It's best if you book through Druk Asia and going as a small group with just your family or friends instead of booking tours through big travel agencies. You'll then be getting your own tour guide, driver and vehicle.

The USD200 (off-peak) or USD250 (peak) per person per night includes accommodation, meals, and everything one needs in a day, minus frills and shopping. Ample bottled drinking water is provided daily in your personal vehicle and there is really no need to spend a single cent except for souvenirs, or at the Centenary Farmer's Market (Thimphu), if you are a fan of local flavours and ingredients.

For info on entry visa, daily tariff, and FAQs can be found here:

https://www.drukasia.com/bhutan-visa/bhutan-visa-tariff/

SOME PHOTOGRAPHY NOTES:

The sun can be harsh and intense in the day during this season. As you can see from the photos, most days were cloudless, which means intense direct sunlight hitting on your subject. The extreme high contrast in highlights and shadows would be a constant challenge for your camera's dynamic range. A fill-flash could be needed to eliminate harsh shadows on faces.

Carry light as there will be a lot of walking. Below are some popular places and their timings (based on our poor physical condition and carefree pace):

• Tango Cheri Monastery, Thimphu - 75 to 90 mins ascend, 60 to 70 mins descend.
• Chimi Lhakhang, Punakha - 40 to 45 mins (one-way) across the valley, paddy, and uphill.
• Pho Chhu Suspension Bridge, Punakha - 20 mins (one-way) from Punakha Dzong.
• Haa Valley View Trail - 60 mins descend (optional trekking to lunch).
• Tiger's Nest Ascend First Section - 40 mins by horse, or 90 mins by foot.
• Tiger's Nest Ascend Second Section - 120 mins by foot only.
• Tiger's Nest Descend - 80 mins + 50 mins (usually with lunch in-between).

Bhutanese are generally very friendly and approachable. Most would love to have their photos taken. They are indeed a happy bunch and do not be shy to ask for a picture (wish I had done that more). Regardless, respect their preference and personal space.

Some parts of temples and Dzongs do not allow photography, with or without flash. Please check with your tour guide if unsure before firing off like there's no tomorrow. Show necessary respect to the people, culture and religion, please.

And here's what I've brought and used for this trip (was a tough decision):

• Nikon D750
• Nikon AF 16mm f2.8D Fisheye
• Nikon AFS 20mm f1.8G ED
• Nikon AFS 50mm f1.4G
• Nikon AFS 24-120mm f4G ED VR
• Nikon AFS 70-200mm f4G ED VR
• Sony RX100 III
• Sony X1000V Action Cam
• Samsung Gear 360 (paired with Samsung S7)
• ONA Messenger Bag - The Union Street

SO, TO VISIT OR NOT? WHEN TO VISIT?

Still trying to read up endless travel blogs and wondering whether you should be visiting Bhutan, or when you should be? First, it's a myth that Bhutan is expensive, because the daily charges cover everything! Second, it's not true that it's hard to get a tourist Visa (in the case of Singaporeans). It could be more difficult to get an air ticket during peak season simply due to the limited flights into the country.

It doesn't matter if it's the Happiness you are after or the Thunder Dragon you are seeking; or for us, just the Dragon King we were hoping to meet, there is every reason to make a trip to this magnificent country at least once in our lives. Or is there even the need for a reason at all?

"It doesn't matter when you get married

as long as it is the right person."

His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck on his Royal Wedding, 13 Oct 2011 

As the King has rightly said, visiting Bhutan is perhaps as emotional and impassioned as his big day. It doesn't matter when, which season, as there is no right time or best time to visit this lovely country, because it is certainly the right and best place to be.